

午後的陽光斜斜地灑在三合院的紅磚牆上,將工作室內的一切染上了一層溫暖的琥珀色。我輕輕打開一個密封的玻璃罐,一股深邃、溫潤且帶著微酸的木質香氣瞬間瀰漫開來。那是來自馬達加斯加的香草莢,黑亮且飽滿,觸感如同絲絨般柔軟。在「花的丘」這個實驗室裡,我習慣在開始製作前,先靜靜地感受食材的呼吸,讓心境與自然的頻率同步。
As the afternoon sun slants across the red brick walls of the Sanheyuan, casting a warm amber glow over the studio. I gently open a sealed glass jar, and instantly, a deep, mellow, and slightly tart woody fragrance fills the air. These are vanilla beans from Madagascar—dark, plump, and soft to the touch, like velvet. In the ‘Hana no Oka’ laboratory, I make it a habit to quietly feel the breath of the ingredients before beginning, aligning my state of mind with the frequency of nature.
一、 尋找黑金的純粹:馬達加斯加的風土與熟成
香草並非簡單的調味品,而是一種極其繁複的自然禮物。我們選用的馬達加斯加波本香草(Vanilla Planifolia),生長在適宜的熱帶雨林氣候中。每一根莢果在採收後,必須經過精心的「殺青」與長達數月的「熟成」過程。在這個過程中,原生的苷類物質在酶的作用下轉化為香草醛(Vanillin),這才是賦予甜點溫暖靈魂的關鍵。對於我而言,挑選香草莢就像是在尋找一種記憶,它必須擁有濃郁的奶油感與微小的花香,而非單一的甜味。
Vanilla is not a simple seasoning, but an incredibly complex gift of nature. The Madagascar Bourbon vanilla (Vanilla Planifolia) we use grows in the ideal tropical rainforest climate. After harvest, each pod must undergo a meticulous “killing” process and several months of “curing.” During this period, natural glycosides are converted into vanillin through enzymatic action, which is the key to giving desserts their warm soul. For me, selecting vanilla beans is like searching for a memory; it must possess a rich creaminess and subtle floral notes, rather than a one-dimensional sweetness.
二、 烘焙中的化學交響:香草醛與風味的乳化
在實驗室的視角下,香草在蛋糕中的作用不僅是賦香,更是一種風味的「橋樑」。香草醛具有極強的協同作用,能有效中和雞蛋的腥味,並提升奶油與砂糖的層次感。當我們將香草籽揉入油脂中,香氣分子會被脂肪包裹,在加熱過程中緩慢釋放,形成一種穩定的乳化狀態。這種物理特性使得香草能將不同食材的稜角磨平,讓口感在舌尖上呈現出圓潤而和諧的流動感,而非突兀的甜膩。
From the perspective of the laboratory, the role of vanilla in a cake is not just to add fragrance, but to act as a “bridge” of flavor. Vanillin has a powerful synergistic effect, effectively neutralizing the eggy scent and enhancing the layers of butter and sugar. When we fold vanilla seeds into fats, the aroma molecules are encapsulated by lipids and released slowly during heating, creating a stable emulsion. This physical property allows vanilla to soften the sharp edges of different ingredients, creating a rounded and harmonious flow on the palate rather than an abrupt sweetness.
三、 經典甜點的演繹:法式香草泡芙 (Profiteroles) 的靈魂
若要探討香草的極致運用,法式香草泡芙絕對是不可或缺的篇章。在純粹的香草外交奶油(Crème Diplomat)中,香草籽如同黑色的小珍珠般散落在乳白色地圖上。這裡的香草不再是配角,而是絕對的主角。它賦予了濃稠奶油一種森林般的深邃感,與酥脆的泡芙殼形成強烈對比。當溫熱的殼與冰涼且充滿香草氣息的內餡在口中交融,那種從味覺延伸到嗅覺的層次感,正是對大自然最誠摯的致敬。
To discuss the ultimate use of vanilla, the French Vanilla Profiterole is an indispensable chapter. In pure vanilla Diplomat cream, the vanilla seeds are scattered like tiny black pearls across a milky white map. Here, vanilla is no longer a supporting actor but the absolute protagonist. It grants the thick cream a forest-like depth, creating a stark contrast with the crisp pastry shell. When the warm shell and the cool, vanilla-scented filling merge in the mouth, the layering from taste to smell is a sincere tribute to nature.
四、 料理人對食材的感動與說明
早年在「麵包屑手作屋」時期,我曾嘗試過許多市售的香草精,但總覺得少了點什麼——那是一種缺乏靈魂的工業甜味。直到我開始研究原莢,嘗試用不同的溫度、不同的油脂去萃取香氣,我才發現真正的香草是有「溫度」的。有一次,我試著將香草莢浸泡在自家熬製的糖漿中,看著那些細小的籽緩緩沉澱,我突然意識到,烘焙其實就是一種對時間的耐心等待。雖然原莢的成本高昂且處理繁瑣,但當我看到顧客在品嚐蛋糕後,閉上眼享受那一抹幽香時,所有的堅持都變得有意義。
In the early days of ‘Breadcrumb Handmade House,’ I tried many commercial vanilla extracts, but I always felt something was missing—an industrial sweetness devoid of soul. It wasn’t until I began studying whole pods, experimenting with different temperatures and fats to extract the aroma, that I realized true vanilla has ‘temperature.’ Once, while soaking vanilla beans in homemade syrup and watching the tiny seeds slowly settle, I suddenly realized that baking is actually a patient wait for time. Although whole pods are costly and tedious to process, seeing a customer close their eyes and savor that lingering fragrance after a bite of cake makes every insistence meaningful.
結語:時間淬鍊的純粹
在三合院的寧靜中,我再次將香草莢收回玻璃罐。對我而言,每一顆香草籽都承載著馬達加斯加的陽光與雨林。我們在實驗室裡追求的,從來不是完美的配方,而是對食材最原始的尊重。
In the tranquility of the Sanheyuan, I return the vanilla beans to their glass jar. To me, every vanilla seed carries the sunlight and rainforests of Madagascar. What we pursue in the laboratory has never been a perfect recipe, but the most primal respect for the ingredients.
不急,不趕。好食材需要時間在土壤中積累,在風乾中熟成。等一切就緒,那份純粹自然會在舌尖綻放。
No rush, no hurry. Good ingredients need time to accumulate in the soil and mature in the wind. When everything is ready, that purity will naturally blossom on the tip of the tongue.














