

午後的陽光斜切進三合院的紅磚牆間,將空氣中的微小塵埃染成金色。我輕輕打開一個密封的玻璃管,那是來自馬達加斯加的香草莢。指尖觸碰到那種近乎黑色的油潤質感,一種深邃、溫暖且帶著木質調的甜香瞬間在古宅的靜謐中擴散開來。這種香氣,是我在「花的丘」實驗室中追求的極致純粹。
In the afternoon, sunlight slices through the red brick walls of the Sanheyuan, tinting the tiny dust particles in the air to gold. I gently open a sealed glass tube containing vanilla beans from Madagascar. As my fingertips touch that nearly black, oily texture, a deep, warm, woody sweetness instantly diffuses through the silence of the old house. This aroma is the ultimate purity I strive for in the “Hills of Flowers” laboratory.
一、 尋找純粹的黑金:馬達加斯加的風土與淬煉
香草並非單純的調味料,而是一種極其複雜的有機化合物。馬達加斯加的香草(Vanilla planifolia)之所以被譽為烘焙界的黑金,在於其獨特的風土。這裡的氣候與土壤賦予了香草莢極高濃度的「香草醛」(Vanillin),並伴隨著淡淡的奶油與煙草氣息。然而,真正的美味來自於漫長的「熟成」過程:在採收後,香草莢必須經過燙葉、發酵與長達數月的陰乾,讓其內部的化學成分在緩慢的氧化過程中,轉化為層次豐富的香氣。
Vanilla is not a simple seasoning, but a highly complex organic compound. Madagascar vanilla (Vanilla planifolia) is hailed as the “black gold” of the baking world due to its unique terroir. The climate and soil here bestow the pods with a high concentration of vanillin, accompanied by subtle notes of cream and tobacco. However, the true flavor comes from a lengthy “curing” process: after harvest, the pods must undergo blanching, sweating, and several months of shading to allow the internal chemical components to transform into a multi-layered aroma through slow oxidation.
二、 烘焙中的香氣科學:揮發性分子與風味的乳化
在實驗室中,我始終在探究香草如何與其他食材產生共鳴。香草莢中的種子含有數百種揮發性化合物,當它們與油脂(如發酵奶油)相遇時,油脂會捕捉這些香氣分子,使其在烘焙過程中不至於過快揮發。而當香草與蛋類、牛奶等蛋白質結合時,會產生一種美妙的乳化效果,讓甜味不再單調,而是增加了一種溫潤的厚度。這種化學上的協同作用,能將蛋糕的整體風味基調從「甜」昇華為「優雅」。
In the laboratory, I am always exploring how vanilla resonates with other ingredients. The seeds within the pods contain hundreds of volatile compounds; when they encounter fats (such as cultured butter), the fats capture these aroma molecules, preventing them from evaporating too quickly during baking. Furthermore, when vanilla combines with proteins like eggs and milk, a wonderful emulsification effect occurs, transforming the sweetness from simple to a warm, velvety depth. This chemical synergy elevates the overall flavor profile of a cake from merely “sweet” to “elegant.”
三、 經典甜點的演繹:法式香草拿破崙 (Mille-feuille) 的靈魂
若要論及香草的極致運用,法式拿破崙(Mille-feuille)是絕佳的例證。這款甜點的核心在於那層層疊疊的酥皮與中間填充的香草外交官奶油(Crème Diplomate)。在這裡,香草不再是配角,而是靈魂。頂級的香草莢種子(Vanilla Bean Specks)散落在乳白色奶油中,像細小的黑珍珠。當舌尖觸碰到奶油的瞬間,香草的溫潤先於甜味而來,中和了酥皮的油膩感,讓層次在口中交織出豐富的森林與奶油之舞。
If we are to discuss the ultimate application of vanilla, the French Mille-feuille is a perfect example. The core of this dessert lies in the layers of puff pastry and the filling of vanilla Crème Diplomate. Here, vanilla is not a supporting actor, but the soul. Seeds from premium pods are scattered throughout the creamy white custard like tiny black pearls. The moment the tongue touches the cream, the warmth of the vanilla precedes the sweetness, neutralizing the richness of the pastry and orchestrating a dance of forest and cream in the mouth.
四、 料理人對食材的感動與說明
在「麵包屑手作屋」時期的我,曾嘗試過使用市售的香草精,但那種化學合成的單一甜味,始終讓我感到空洞。直到我決定在三合院裡建立這座實驗室,開始親自對比不同產區的香草。我記得第一次將高品質香草莢劃開,看著那些細小的種子流出時的震憾——那是大自然經過時間沉澱後的饋贈。挑選香草莢極其困難,必須在含水量、光澤度與香氣飽滿度之間尋找平衡,一次不慎的溫控就可能毀掉整批原料。但當我看著成品蛋糕中那些天然的黑點,我知道,這份對純粹的堅持,能讓品嚐者感受到一種不被掩蓋的真實。
During my time at “Breadcrumb Handmade House,” I tried using commercial vanilla extracts, but that chemically synthesized, one-dimensional sweetness always felt hollow. It wasn’t until I decided to establish this laboratory in the Sanheyuan and begin comparing vanilla from different regions. I remember the shock of first slicing open a high-quality pod and seeing those tiny seeds flow out—a gift from nature refined by time. Selecting vanilla beans is incredibly difficult; one must find a balance between moisture content, gloss, and aroma density; a single mistake in temperature control can ruin an entire batch. Yet, seeing those natural black specks in the finished cake, I know that this insistence on purity allows the taster to experience an unmasked truth.
結語:時間與純粹的對話
在古宅的紅磚牆邊,我學會了等待。無論是香草的熟成,還是蛋糕的發酵,所有美好的事物都無法被加速。我們在實驗室裡追求的,其實就是一種對自然的敬畏之心。
Beside the red brick walls of the old house, I have learned to wait. Whether it is the curing of vanilla or the fermentation of a cake, all beautiful things refuse to be rushed. What we pursue in the laboratory is, in essence, a heart of reverence for nature.
不急,不趕。好食材需要時間在靜謐中熟成,讓香氣在歲月裡沉澱。等一切就緒,那份純粹自然會在舌尖綻放,溫柔地告訴你,關於大地與時間的故事。
No rush, no hurry. Great ingredients need time to ripen in tranquility, allowing the aroma to settle through the years. When everything is ready, that purity will naturally bloom on the palate, gently telling you the story of the earth and time.














