

午後的陽光斜斜地灑在三合院的紅磚牆上,將工作室內的空氣染上一層溫暖的金黃。我輕輕打開那個密封的玻璃罐,一股深邃、溫潤且帶著微甜的木質香氣瞬間瀰漫開來。指尖觸摸著那幾根油亮、飽滿的馬達加斯加香草莢,我想起從「麵包屑手作屋」時期的純粹,到如今在「花的丘」追求極致的實驗精神,對我而言,香草從來不是用來掩蓋味道的添加物,而是一種能喚醒食材靈魂的媒介。
In the afternoon, the sunlight slants across the red brick walls of the Sanheyuan, tinting the air in the studio with a warm golden hue. I gently open the sealed glass jar, and a deep, mellow, slightly sweet woody aroma instantly fills the space. As my fingertips touch those glossy, plump Madagascar vanilla beans, I recall the purity of the “Breadcrumb Handmade House” era and the spirit of extreme experimentation now embraced at “Hana no Oka.” To me, vanilla has never been an additive used to mask flavors, but a medium capable of awakening the soul of the ingredients.
一、 尋找黑色黃金:馬達加斯加的風土與熟成
馬達加斯加的香草被譽為「黑色黃金」,其獨特的風味來自於該島特殊的熱帶氣候與繁瑣的後處理工藝。每一根香草莢都經歷了人工授粉、數月的生長,以及最關鍵的「發酵」與「熟成」過程。在溫暖的環境中,香草莢內部的酵素會將前驅體轉化為香草醛(Vanillin),這正是其迷人香氣的來源。與工業化生產的香草精不同,天然香草莢含有超過兩百種芳香化合物,這種複雜度讓它在甜點中能呈現出層次分明的溫潤感。
Madagascar vanilla is hailed as “Black Gold,” its unique flavor derived from the island’s specific tropical climate and meticulous post-harvest processing. Every bean undergoes manual pollination, months of growth, and the most critical processes of “curing” and “aging.” In a warm environment, enzymes within the bean convert precursors into vanillin, the source of its captivating aroma. Unlike industrially produced vanilla extract, natural vanilla beans contain over two hundred aromatic compounds, a complexity that allows them to impart a nuanced, layered warmth to desserts.
二、 烘焙中的化學:香氣的釋放與乳化協作
在實驗室中,我觀察到香草在不同溫度下的表現。香草醛具有親脂性,這意味著它能完美地溶解在奶油或鮮奶油中。當我們將香草籽與油脂共同加熱時,熱能會加速香氣分子的擴散,使其均勻地包裹在脂肪球周圍。在製作蛋糕基底時,香草不僅提供了嗅覺上的享受,更在化學上起到了「調和劑」的作用,它能中和雞蛋的腥味,並將砂糖的甜膩感昇華為一種優雅的甜美,讓整體風味在舌尖上達到完美的平衡。
In the laboratory, I observe how vanilla behaves at different temperatures. Vanillin is lipophilic, meaning it dissolves perfectly in butter or heavy cream. When we heat vanilla seeds together with fats, the thermal energy accelerates the diffusion of aroma molecules, allowing them to uniformly encapsulate the fat globules. In creating cake bases, vanilla provides more than just olfactory pleasure; it acts as a chemical “harmonizer,” neutralizing the eggy scent and elevating the cloying sweetness of sugar into an elegant sweetness, achieving a perfect balance of flavor on the palate.
三、 經典甜點的演繹:法式香草泡芙 (Choux au Craquelin) 的靈魂
若要論及香草的極致運用,法式香草外交官奶油(Vanilla-infused Diplomat Cream)是不可或缺的經典。在完美的香草泡芙中,香草莢的黑籽如同星辰般散落在乳白色的奶油霜裡。這裡的香草扮演著定義「純粹」的角色:它讓濃郁的牛奶與蛋黃在高溫熬煮後,依然能保有清新且深邃的基調。當酥脆的泡芙皮在口中破裂,內餡的香草香氣隨著奶油的乳化狀態在口腔中爆發,這種從濃郁到清新的轉折,正是天然香草賦予經典甜點的靈魂。
When discussing the ultimate application of vanilla, the vanilla-infused Diplomat Cream in a French Choux au Craquelin is an indispensable classic. In a perfect cream puff, the black vanilla seeds are scattered like stars within the milky white cream. Here, vanilla plays the role of defining “purity”: it ensures that the rich milk and egg yolks, after being simmered at high temperatures, still retain a fresh yet deep undertone. As the crisp pastry shell breaks in the mouth, the aroma of vanilla explodes along with the emulsion of the cream; this transition from richness to freshness is the soul that natural vanilla bestows upon classic desserts.
四、 料理人對食材的感動與說明
在追求極致的過程中,我也曾陷入迷茫。早年我嘗試過各種不同產區的香草,甚至試圖用更高濃度的萃取液來追求強烈的香氣,但結果卻發現,過度的強度反而掩蓋了食材本身的溫柔。我意識到,真正的頂級食材不需要「大聲喧嘩」,而是在安靜中陪伴。當我第一次在三合院的陽光下,將手工刮出的香草籽緩緩拌入溫熱的鮮奶油中,看著那些黑色小點在乳白色液體中舞動,我感受到一種對自然的敬畏。那是時間與土地的饋贈,不需要任何化學修飾,僅僅是純粹的自然之味。
In the pursuit of perfection, I have also experienced moments of doubt. In the early years, I experimented with vanilla from various regions and even tried high-concentration extracts to achieve a powerful aroma, only to find that excessive intensity actually masked the gentleness of the ingredients. I realized that truly premium ingredients do not need to “shout”; rather, they provide a quiet companionship. The first time I slowly stirred hand-scraped vanilla seeds into warm heavy cream under the sunlight of the Sanheyuan, watching those tiny black specks dance in the milky white liquid, I felt a profound reverence for nature. It is a gift of time and earth, requiring no chemical modification—just the taste of pure nature.
結語:關於純粹的等待
在花的丘,我們不追求速度,而追求對食材的深刻理解。香草莢需要時間熟成,而我們對烘焙的熱情則需要時間沉澱。
At Hana no Oka, we do not pursue speed, but rather a profound understanding of our ingredients. Vanilla beans require time to cure, and our passion for baking requires time to settle.
不急,不趕。好食材需要時間在適宜的溫度與濕度中靜靜醞釀。等一切就緒,那份純粹自然會在每一口甜點中,溫柔地告訴你它的故事。
No rush, no hurry. Great ingredients need time to brew quietly in the right temperature and humidity. When everything is ready, that purity will naturally tell you its story, gently, in every single bite of the dessert.






